Stages of assembly

There are several steps involved in assembling a glazed picture frame:
• Cleaning the glass
• Inserting the picture (Removing any lint)
• Fixing the backing
• Sealing
• Fixing the hangers
• Tying the wire
• Finishing off (Adding bump-ons)

You should clean the glass for your frame with a good proprietary glass cleaner.

Insert the glass into the frame. Spray the glass with glass cleaner.

Note: It is always safer to clean the glass in the frame, that way you avoid the sharp edges which could cut you. You only need to clean the inside at this stage.

Wipe the glass with a dry cotton cloth or paper towel. Pay particular attention to the corners.

Keep wiping until there are no streaks and the glass is dry.

Brush the glass with a large paint brush or wall paper brush to remove any lint. It usually helps to brush the glass all one way and then out along the edge you brushed to.

You can use a small blower or vacuum cleaner...just be careful to not scratch the glass.

When the glass is clean you need to insert your artwork before any dust settles back on the surface of the glass.

Brush the artwork to remove any bits of dirt or lint. Be careful not to damage the artwork

Do not brush a pastel or charcoal drawing.

Quickly insert the artwork into the frame. Hold the piece in place until you have secured it in position.

You will need to hold the backing in with either brads, framer's points, glaziers points or turn-buttons.

Hold the backing in place by fixing several framer's points at regular intervals around the frame. Usually space the points by 100-150mm (4-6 inches)

Here you can see that the point is fixed into the frame and the flat back section protrudes and holds the backing in place.

If you cannot afford the expense of a point driver you can always use glazier's points. These are inserted with a large screwdriver.

The trick is to lever the point in by wiggling the screwdriver back and forth.

It is important to seal your picture frame.

You could apply adhesive tape, brown paper or brown gummed tape to do this.

I prefer to use gummed paper tape that is water activated. This tends to shrink when it dries and this helps with the holding of the frame. Tear off strips slightly longer than the length you require to seal the frame.

Run each strip in turn over a sponge or through a water bath to activate the adhesive.

You should not over saturate the tape.

You can use your fingers like a small wringing device to remove any excess water.

Whilst the tape is moist apply it in position on the frame. Usually it would be a couple of millimetres (1/8") in from the edge.

Here I am going to apply two rows of tape to cover the back edge of the moulding.

Trim off the tape with a blade or craft knife.

Do this whilst the tape is still wet.

Repeat this until you have sealed the frame on all sides.

You should choose a suitable D-ring or other hanger that can support the weight of the picture you are framing.

Measure the position for the D-rings. This is usually one third down from the top of the picture frame.

Using a small screw fix the D-ring in place. They should face the centre of the frame with the flat side down.

You can use:
• plastic coated wire
• stainless steel wire
• Surflon
• Softstrand type wires
• nylon cord

Bring the wire out of the ring from the bottom
"The rabbit comes out of the hole"

Twist the wire once around itself.
"Runs around the tree"

Thread the wire back through the ring.
"The rabbit goes back down the hole"

Twist off the wire around itself several times.
"I don't know...maybe the rabbit learnt the twist"

Trim off the excess wire with wire cutters.
"Oops...look out rabbit!"

Repeat the process for the other ring. Set the length of your wire by folding it over in the second ring using your index finger like a hook.

The wire should be slack.

Click here to look for the reasons.

The frame should have some felt bump-ons fixed on the bottom corners.

This promotes air circulation which prevents mould from growing and stops the frame from marking your walls.

Fix felt bump-ons on the bottom corners of the frame. If you can't get felt bump-ons you could make your own.

Beware of using cork or foam rubber for bump-ons as these can stick to your walls leaving some horrible marks.

The finished frame should have slack wire and bump-ons in the bottom corners. You can hang your picture ...preferably on two wall hooks. This reduces the stress and should prevent your pictures from becoming crooked on the wall.

Here's Susan with the finished picture.